We have a national program called “America's Byways” which is a distinction given to routes with one or more archeological, cultural, historic, natural, recreational and scenic qualities. One is located here in Lincoln county named the Billy the Kid Scenic Byway which loops through the towns of Lincoln, Capitan and Ruidoso. Along the way it passed John Tunstell’s murder site, which was the beginning of the Lincoln County War. I saw about a dozen elk grazing in a field.
The town of Lincoln appears pretty much as it did over 100 years ago and many of the historic structures are a part of a historical park. At the Tunstell store I met a volunteer park guide who was incredibly passionate and knowledgeable of the town’s history. I was one of the only tourists in town so he and I talked for quite a while. He took me into the back rooms of the store, which are not restored or typically open to the public. In the room there some loose floorboards which conceal a small area where Billy successfully hid after being grazed on the hip in one of the street gun fights. The original back door into the room is still usable and it was pretty incredible to know the Kid had stepped on the stone outside the door and passed that threshold.
Another building on the tour is the original store which became the courthouse where Billy escaped from. One display are the leg irons he was wearing and had cut off a few miles away after the escape. Upstairs in the building is a Masonic Lodge built with the original structure, which could only be accessed with a ladder outside the building. Internal access now exists. I was surprised to find extensive explanations of many of the Masonic symbolism and ritual in the room.
Leaving Lincoln the drive goes west to Capitan, where Smokey Bear’s gravesite is located. Along the drive there was a roadside parking area near the Capitan Gap where Smokey was found after the forest fire.
On the drive out of Capitan the road heads towards the mountain peaks and the views are incredible. Tried to head up a national forest road to a scenic overlook however the road was still closed for the season.
Filled up with gas and explored town for dinner. It was surprising dead at 8 pm on a Saturday night. I guess the economy here really is based on seasonal tourism.
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